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The Niger Delta Friendship Library was created to provide learning opportunities to the people of the Niger Delta and to serve as a shared resource for the people of the Ijaw and Itsekiri tribes. We were pleased to learn that the first computer training was being offered and that members of both tribes were attending. Having both Ijaw and Itsekiri tribe members in the class is something that would have been unheard of a few years ago in light of the still-healing animosity between the tribes. The ten-day course was taught by the new librarian, Christian. In addition to attendance by members of both tribes, the class was also evenly divided between men and women.

The brand-new generator was used to power the used PCs that were previously donated by GCJ. A computer technician from Warri determined that two of the four computers needed new drives and would be taken back to Warri for repairs. One of our team would bring them back on a return visit. The students were treated to actual hands-on experience with a real personal computer.

We learned there is a community bakery in Oporoza and this morning Sean and Leslye were taken there by a few village boys. Inside a young boy was loading large baking sheets into a big adobe oven, while a man supervised and tended to the fire. Just beyond them, a few girls lined up, purses in hand, waiting to buy the biscuit-type breads being sorted and bagged on a tarp on the floor. These breads are called Madiga – a bit like shortbread biscuits, quite dry with a little sweetness to them. Behind a curtain, the back room was in full swing with dough processing. A man they call “Miller” was passing huge slabs of dough through a press powered by a generator. These were transferred to a large table, where a couple of boys cut them into squares and placed them on baking sheets. Flour sacks lined the walls. The whole place buzzed with activity and the sound of machinery – not so typical in this village where power generally only comes on at night. The Madiga is sold to individuals and at the market.

A group of us got on a boat and headed into the creeks for an afternoon with Ibiba, Fanty, Helen, and Chief Josephine. All four are powerful women who, even in the midst of the complex gender issues in Nigeria, have asserted their power in a variety of ways to create change in the Niger Delta. Being in their presence was inspiring and gave each of us hope about the potential for change in the area. Fanty and Chief Josephine were among the women who took over the oil platform in 2002 (see 8.11 entry). We wanted to have them share the experience filmed as close as we could get to the platform.

We began with a stop at the village of Benikrukru. Tradition dictates that a meeting with the village elders and chiefs, who are almost always men, must occur before you can visit the village. During that initial meeting, we met a young girl who had suffered a severe burn nine months prior. Due to financial constraints, her family has not been able to get medical attention for her. As a result, the burn has yet to heal. It was a stark reminder of the conditions these people live in. The desperation of the girl’s mother remains haunting.

We toured the village and witnessed the dramatic changes in the earth as a result of oil production. Villagers reported that the earth is literally sinking. The phenomenon is evidenced by homes on stilts, boards and blocks laid over the most impassible puddles and muddy clothes. The most searing image was of an elder woman dressed in beautiful clothes that were accented with bright yellow rubber boots intended to accommodate the muddy paths and puddles.

We next went to Abiteye, Chief Josephine’s village. During the traditional introduction ceremony, she gave her opening greetings and remarks. Then in the middle of the ceremony, she quietly took some of the biscuits that had been presented to us and walked over to a window where a group of small children had gathered. One by one, she gave each of them a portion of biscuits. The moment served as a beautiful symbol of our belief that women in leadership roles would create change in the region through prioritizing the care of children and their fellow community members.

Abiteye is a host community for a Chevron facility, which we could see in the background. In 2002, Chief Josephine and Fanty were part of a group of women who took over the platform and refused to leave until their demands, all of which were intended to serve the needs of their children and families, were met. Unfortunately, reports we have received indicate the demands have yet to be fully met.

In the late afternoon, Laurie, Sean, Ryan and Cliff watched a soccer match (known as football in Nigeria) between the boys of Oporoza and a neighboring village. Alex, a member of team Oporoza, informed us that teams from all over the creeks get together at regular intervals to play. It is not exactly what you would call organized and, as it just so happened, two other teams showed up at the exact time that Oporoza and Benikrukru were suiting up. Much animated discussion erupted, with the other two teams insisting that the matches be limited to one hour apiece. As we understand it, this was what was eventually agreed to.

Then, just as the teams hit the field, the bottom dropped out of the clouds that had been threatening trouble all day long. As if on cue, everyone retreated to an abandoned structure about two hundred feet from the actual field. It was thought that everyone would hang there until the rain abated. But after looking back at the field, it was apparent that these guys take their football seriously. The game was in full swing playing in what was building up to be a torrential downpour. And these guys were quite good to begin with. To witness that level of play in that kind of rain was a sight to behold. Oh, and Oporoza kicked butt to the tune of 3-0.

One interesting side note that developed from speaking with Alex and his friend, Rafael, is the fact that this Saturday there is another football game: this time with a Itsekiri team. This is interesting in that these two tribes have had some bad blood between them for years. Then about three years ago, a local boy from the Oporoza football team decided to invite the Itsekiri team to play in a friendly match. Much debate ensued, but in the end, the elders from both sides decided to give it a try. It was a tense game but it ended without incident. They have been playing each other on a regular basis ever since. And this Saturday, we plan to capture some of the game on video. Tribal unification through the sport of football—what an amazing thing.

Today Tammi was the “celebrant,” as they say here in Nigeria. We started the day with a special song for her and a handing-off of her logistics tasks for the day. After dinner, our cooks brought out some cookies they had baked. A birthday cake and red wine that made the trip from Warri on a boat with Iffy, our Nigerian support person, followed this.

After dinner, NAGS representatives joined us with some new arrivals. The men, members of the “Gbaramatu Youth Council,” came for formal greetings and words of support. After a round of introductions and a genuine extension of support from the President, a speech was delivered on behalf of the group by their Secretary. They shared their support: “We the youths from Gbaramatu Kingdom are ready to stay with you and grant you the needed assistance required in actualizing your age-long desire of a comprehensive documentary….” They went on to say, “We want to tell the world that, if and only if, you tour the creeks of the Niger Delta that produces the wealth of Nigeria, you will understand the pains engulfing the Niger Delta youths, you will be amazed with the level of poverty rocking the people, you will be pained to heart, you will be disappointed with the happenings and deprived life of the Niger Delta child, it is a tentacle of deprivation, neglect, poverty, under development…But, we are saying to you and the world that our heart remains our heart.” They closed by saying, “We sincerely thank you so much for your deep concern in elevating the sufferings of our people...”

We closed the day with fun and celebration for Tammi’s birthday at the bar. The documentary work continued to unfold even in this setting – complete with beer, music and dancing. For it is through relationships, the real connections, that people open themselves to one another in ways that enable us to truly capture their stories. And that is why we are here - to capture, as comprehensively as possible, the stories of the people of the Niger Delta.