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When we visited the village of Benikrukru last week in the creeks, a young girl, whose family and community appealed to us for support, immediately moved us. She was a sweet 7-year-old who, over a year ago, fell in a fire and was severely burned. Her burns have gone untreated, and the sight of the scarring and yet to heal wounds were shocking. The emotion in the room was high as we struggled with the reality of her situation, trying to imagine the pain and suffering she had endured. And then there was the anger some of us felt learning that absolutely no treatment was provided for this critical wound. Where is the leadership? Where are the government programs? Where are the concerned community members that could have mobilized to get attention?

This girl, Esther, remained in our hearts and minds. As our time in Oporoza came to an end, we decided to return to the village on the way to Warri. We stopped in Benikrukru to say we would arrange a boat for the family to get to the hospital in Warri, and provide the resources for the wound care. The mother asked if she could bring her youngest daughter, Faith, for treatment as well. She has had jaundice since birth.

A few days later in Warri, Kendra went as the group representative to spend the day with Godwin (mother) and her two daughters. Another mother and son from the village had arrived with them, appealing for support of David, a 10-year-old who was going blind in one eye. With Helen’s support, Kendra spent a full day moving between different departments of the hospital for all three children’s care. All were seen by doctors and given either diagnosis or information about next steps. David needs eye surgery, to insert a new lens and restore his vision. Our group decided to pay for this as well, and the surgery is scheduled for the end of September.

Faith had an x-ray and ultrasound and was prescribed some medications for her liver and all-around nutritional health. She has more tests to do and has another doctor’s appointment on Monday.

Esther was seen by a surgeon, which took quite some doing. He was not seeing new patients that day, but with Helen’s connections and persistence, Kendra was able to get in and through some charm and persuasion, finally got his attention. He looked at Esther and was shocked by the extent of her burn. He said that she would need plastic surgery. In the meantime, Kendra asked for help with the open wound and he prescribed antibiotics and other meds to help with the healing in addition to daily dressings.

Choosing to devote a portion of our time and finances toward these children’s health has been very rewarding. We already know a difference has been made for their future and reports of new smiles and hope comes through with lightness from both families. Kendra was able to spend quite a few hours alone with Esther and observed a small shift in her through the afternoon. Such a transformation is powerful in the life of this courageous girl. We are proud of this endeavor and plan to follow through with resources for each of the children, including a plastic surgery for Esther.

Ibiba, Sean and Cliff set out to interview Chief Edwin Kiagbodo Clark, the outspoken South-South Ijaw leader/spokesperson at his residence. His home was stately with a large, open receiving room filled with people sitting on couches and chairs that lined the perimeter of space. Once he changed into his royal finery, he proceeded to live up to his reputation as an outspoken critic of the plight of the Ijaw people. He spoke at length of the environmental, social, financial and spiritual challenges that face not only the Ijaw, but all the villages of the Delta region. He spoke of how oil companies and the local and state governments need to work toward getting more of the resources directly to the villages in order to more directly effect change in these impoverished areas.

After the interview with Chief Clark, the crew headed out to the Government Building in Asaba to interview the Chief of Staff, Professor Dara. Ibiba had to butt a few heads and make a few calls to get them past the guys with big guns and the ever-present metal gates (almost every important residence and structure in Nigeria is surrounded by a formidable wall topped with embedded shards of glass and/or concertina wire, with access gained through large, metal gates) and finally into the office of Professor Dara.

After the interview, it was time to make the over two-hour drive back to Warri. The hired driver navigated the weary Peugeot sedan out of the city and onto the pothole-riddled highway. All along these “highways” MOPOL (Motor Police) set up “checkpoints” at random intervals between towns and cities. According to Ibiba, they are nothing more than government sanctioned extortion sites. Nigerians traveling along these highways who have had the misfortune of being stopped by these groups of men in semi-matching uniforms armed with AK-47’s in various states of disrepair, usually find themselves needing to “settle” the officers with a bit of cash before being allowed to pass.

Typically, a checkpoint goes like this: If you’re not waved through (about a 50-50 chance), the MOPOL guys signal the car to pull over, request the driver’s papers and ask to inspect the “boot” (trunk). After a bit of Q and A (and cash), you are sent on your way. Unfortunately, events at this particular checkpoint did not follow the normal script. As the car neared the officer on point, he noticed the camera in Sean’s hands and the fact that it was pointed in his general direction. It was then that things went south, as the officer began yelling at Sean, accusing him of “snapping” him. His hand was on his weapon as he fired off a fusillade of accusations and questions. The driver was ordered to the side of the road. Sean was ordered out of the car. Ibiba attempted unsuccessfully to calm the officer down. Despite Sean’s insistence that he had not snapped the checkpoint, the officer demanded he hand over the camera (which he did not).

Cliff remained in the car until ordered out by another officer. Then everyone was ordered back into the vehicle, an officer taking Ibiba’s seat in front. The driver was ordered to make the U-turn and stop a short distance down the road in a lot with a partially finished gas station. Everyone was once again ordered out of the car and the yelling started anew. Ibiba again tried to calm the officer down, insisting that yelling was not necessary. This only seemed to enrage him more and, at one point, it appeared as if he were about to backhand her. He made it abundantly clear that a woman was not going to speak to him in that manner.

Brushing Ibiba off, he summoned Cliff over and began to fire questions at him about their business in the area. Other officers joined the fray. Meanwhile, alerted by a cell phone call from the crew, the gang back in Warri tried to find someone who could do something about the situation. For nearly two hours Sean, Ibiba and Cliff made calls and tried to placate egos. A superior officer arrived in a shiny Mercedes to listen to the story and still they were unable to leave. In the end, they were brought in to headquarters, where they were finally released, and escorted back past the original checkpoint, where the very same officers now happily waved them through, grinning like long-lost friends.

It was only after Joel pulled some major strings and called in favors from highly placed individuals that the crew was released. The bitter reality for Nigerians is that they do not have this option at their disposal. Every day they are left to the mercy of these bands of armed thugs with no recourse but to relinquish what is wanted, or accept the brutal—and sometimes fatal—consequences.